King Fong Café—a local favorite since 1920 (article)
Omaha’s oldest Chinese restaurant is a definite must stop for locals and visitors alike
By Heather Heier Lane | Encounter Magazine, Omaha Publications
One of Omaha’s oldest restaurants, King Fong Café, has been discreetly tucked away—and up a few stairs—on 16thstreet in Downtown Omaha for a very, very long time. Since 1920 this Chinese restaurant has been a local favorite, and to this day patrons will occasionally walk through the door and launch into a detailed story regailing the first time they can remember visiting the ornately decorated establishment. With hand embroidered silk spun embroideries lining the walls, ornate tile floor, hand-carved teakwood tables and chairs inlaid with mother-of-pearl, as well as carvings so detailed taking over the entire dining room façade that it boggles the mind how anyone could work with such artistry—it is not hard to imagine remembering the first time you see this magical place. Simply put, if you have not been there you must plan a trip soon. If you have been to King Fong Cafe but it has been a while, rest assured—it still looks like you stepped back into 1920. And don’t forget to check out the chandeliers (also hand carved), each telling the story of a Chinese opera through miniature three dimensional figures.
The building itself was built in 1880, and in 1909 it was given a $175,000 renovation as Hanson’s Café Beautiful. Obviously a lot of money for the time, this renovation was not kept long. For in 1920 the Chin family opened King Fong Café and invested in the opulent decorations that now make the place so unique and culturally interesting. Ever since the restaurant opened not much has changed, except perhaps the menu and hours of operation. Nancy Huey, president and manager of King Fong Café, laughs at some of the old menus they have stumbled across over the years, “there were items for a nickel…a dime.”
Nancy’s father, Sin Huey, was only 12-years-old when he came to the United States, ending up in Omaha because an uncle lived here. Before taking over King Fong Café from the Chin family he worked at numerous restaurants and also worked as an immigration translator and fought in the U.S. Army during World War II. When he got back to the states he started working with the Chin family and worked his way up from the bottom. Eventually the Chin family moved to California to retire and Huey, with his experience as a translator and skill with the English language, took over operations. He and his wife Yai kept with tradition and ran the place as a family business. Over the years many aunts and uncles have worked at the restaurant, and to this day his daughter Nancy Huey, along with her brother and sister, still run the place. Sin Huey semi-retired in 1982 and passed away in 1989. Yai Huey, at the age of 85, still comes to the restaurant. When the days are good and the weather is right, not too hot or too cold, Yai comes and chats with customers—occasionally taking orders, during the Friday lunch shift. According to Nancy, “we have regulars who come in on Fridays just to see her.”
When asked what makes the place special, Nancy says, “when many people come up the stairs they reminisce and remember the good old days.” Perhaps they are remembering special family memories or just relishing the idea that a place can be around so long. Either way, for Huey and her family it is the part of the job that makes the place so special. With only seven employees things can get crazy busy, and everyone has to pitch in and wear many hats. Yet when a customer leaves with a smile on their face, it makes it all worthwhile. All the hard work and hours spent behind the counter or in the kitchen all seem worth it. Besides the memories and being such a big part of Omaha’s history Huey also points out that what also makes King Fong special is the food, “made fresh to order, with no preservatives.” As traditional Cantonese fare, it is not too spicy. Patrons order a lot of fried rice and the sweet and sour sauce is made fresh with molasses, making it a little different than the usual red sauce.
Over the years, neighbors have come and gone. And with each decade comes a new clientele in addition to the decades old regulars. Gone are the proper dress shops and doctor’s offices, making room for the apartments and condos of today. Nowadays people prefer to drive and circle for parking instead of visiting the downtown by bus. And in the early 1950s a fire closed the third floor eating area—but not even that could close this mainstay. At King Fong Cafe, a restaurant that has survived for nearly 90 years, you can actually be considered a regular if you come once a week, once a year—or the last time you stopped in was 25 years ago. And in a time when many restaurants have trouble making it past the five year mark, there is something refreshing about a place that has served Jerry Lewis and Art Garfunkel—back when they were performing on a regular basis and were in the news as often as Lindsay Lohan.
When a place has been an active part of a community as long as King Fong Café, it is nice to know that they are just as happy to see you, as you are to see them when you walk through the door. Whether you are there for the first time, or the hundredth time, they will be happy to seat you at one of those ornate tables first brought over from China in 1920. If only the walls could talk.
Skills/Interests: Writing, Freelance, Cover Story, Historic Restaurant (now closed)
